| ...Welcome
to the ‘vineyard-garden’
of Ramandolo!
I don’t know who first coined
this delightful epithet.
I can, on the other hand,
say that it perfectly reflects
the reality of what is
and will always remain the first cru
in Friuli Venezia Giulia.
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| A
‘vineyard-garden’, then, set up not only to make a truly
superb product – and Ramandolo is a wine universally recognised
as ranking alongside the most famous sweet wines on the international
market – but also to link wine production with other activities
within or in any case related to this sector. Such as farm tourism
which, in the Nimis area, has achieved development quite impossible
to foresee only a few years ago. |
A
‘vineyard-garden’, then, set up not only to make a truly
superb product – and Ramandolo is a wine universally recognised
as ranking alongside the most famous sweet wines on the international
market – but also to link wine production with other activities
within or in any case related to this sector. Such as farm tourism
which, in the Nimis area, has achieved development quite impossible
to foresee only a few years ago.
But what benefits are on offer to visitors staying in this corner
of the ‘Colli Orientali’ in Friuli and the Vine and
Wine Park? First and foremost, it should not be forgotten that Nimis
is delightfully ‘set’ in a region which Ippolito Nievo
rightly defined as a ‘tiny compendium of the Universe’,
as if to say that this land has something of everything on offer:
an area of a few dozen kilometres embraces the sea, mountains, plains
and hills. And this environment was well-known to the great writer
who lived in the castle at Colloredo di Monte Albano, so much so
that the country hamlet of Torlano di Sopra was the landmark for
one of his popular novels and the setting for ‘Conte Pecoraio’.
Anyone on holiday in Nimis cannot but visit this view of undoubted
beauty opening sheer over the ‘clear, fresh, sweet’
waters of the Cornappo, ‘populated’ with trout, chub
and fresh-water shrimps. The two banks of the mountain stream, springing
from the Gran Monte, are joined by the Bridge of Angels, a bold
structure and one of the most evocative in Friuli. “Nievo’s
hamlet”, practically razed to the ground by the earthquake
in 1976, has since been rebuilt on the left bank.
Once in the village itself, visitors can easily reach the ancient
church of Saints Gervasio and Protasio: it dominates Nimis from
a small hill, just across the bridge over the stream – the
same one flowing through Torlano – with its thousand-year-old
tower.
The
matrix of the country church at Nimis – which once extended
up to Resia and is now the parish for people living in Povoletto
and Taipana – dates from the XII-XIII century, but its origins
go back another six-seven centuries, since it was built on the foundations
of a small pagan temple. There are precious fresco cycles, restored
in the early decades of the XX century by Tita Gori, the painter
born precisely in the stone house opposite the church which is now
home to one of the most famous osteria of the village.
And the best way to finish a meal? There are the rustic uessuz from
the bakery at San Gervasio made to a Mediaeval recipe of the friars
who lived in a small monastery in the shadow of the historic country
church. But don’t eat them as they are, dry: they are best
savoured when ‘dunked’ in ‘Ramandolo’! It
is a perfect combination and their flavour will accompany you all
the time you stay in the valley of Nimis – and, when you return
again, you will surely delight in tasting this simple yet delicious
‘duet’ once more. And the final, magical touch? A perfumed
grappa. A ‘Ramandolo’ grappa, naturally, distilled from
the pressings of the grapes harvested in this ‘vineyard-garden’.
(by Giuseppe Longo - Welcome to the “vineyard-garden”) |
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